Day 9, 10 and 11 -- Sorry No Internet at Phantom Ranch

What an extraordinary experience!

We head via bus to the South Kaibab trail at about 9:00 a.m. It's cold and windy, but the day promises to be warm and sunny as we travel down the canyon. Here's a view from the top of the 7-1/2 mile trail we would be descending that day (super steep so less miles than the Bright Angel trail, which is 10 miles long from Phantom Ranch to the Rim, we would be heading back up Friday).

Our guide starts us off with a quick reminder of the three most important things to remember ... the three Fs -- food, feet and fluids. Eat often, notice any "hot spots" on your feet before they become blisters (apparently that's what they are called) and drink lots of water. Okay, I can do this. Three simple things ... but nothing is ever quite simple with me. First I have to immediately change my shorts at the top of the trail head because my camelback leaked all over my backside. I thought I had a leak in my bladder (that's what holds the water in a camelback) and was freaking out because there are no water refill stations along the Kaibab trail so you have to bring enough fluids to get you down the trail. My guide looks at my bladder, can't find a leak and then checks the mouth part you drink from. Sure enough I didn't have it turned off so it was leaking out everywhere. One crisis solved.

Then I get out my new hiking poles. For anyone that knows me, I am seriously the most inept person when it comes to anything mechanical. I can't even get a toolbox open. Tim used to get so frustrated with me and thought I was being helpless on purpose so I wouldn't have to do anything for myself, but he has since learned, I really can't figure this shit out. However, it's one thing to appear like an idiot in front of your husband and quite another in front of complete strangers waiting on you to get started! I can't figure out to get the poles extended to the right length. Finally my guide says you need to turn them until they become loose and then tighten them the same way. Oh, okay ... so I struggle a bit more and then finally get them fixed. Then the guide says to me, "And, ah, you need to take the protective tips off  the end." Oh, I didn't know they weren't supposed to be on there ... once again, I'm struggling to pull them off. "Um, actually I think they screw off," says the guide probably wondering if I'm the token problem child he's going to have to deal with on this trip. Oh, okay. Argh ... I feel like such a dope. But finally, we are ready to hit the trail.

The view from the top is stunning of course, and I'm so excited I'm giddy. We start down the trail going back and forth over the switchbacks, and after an hour or two it's already at least 10 degrees warmer. The weather is perfect, not too hot and not too windy at this point. It seems like every time we round a corner, it's another breathtaking view and I get that familiar feeling of awe and emotion in my chest when I feel overwhelming gratitude for where I am, what I'm doing, and quite frankly, when I feel closest to God. And as most of you know, I mean that wholly in a spiritual way, not in a religious way.

At about 12 we stop for a lunch that our REI guide has brought for us. He leads us to a shady place among the rocks with a view of the Colorado River below. He sets up fresh salmon, strawberries, blueberries, hummus, crackers, brie cheese, cucumbers, salami, turkey and bread. It's like a gourmet picnic, and we all dig in. The pace is slow, and we stop often for breaks and to enjoy the view. Stacey and I stop often to take pictures, and we are dubbed the Kodak twins.

Finally we reach the bridge that crosses the Colorado River and we head into Phantom Ranch. It's like a little oasis nestled at the bottom of the Canyon. Tons of green trees and a stream surround the ranch. We're tired and dirty and excited. Our guide checks us in and informs us that they've had a water break so there's no running water, but they do have fresh water to drink. In other words, no showers and to flush the toilets we have to fill these big red buckets with water and then pour it down the toilet. Then refill the bucket and leave it for the next person who has to go. Fun, fun, fun. It's gross and our dorms consist of bunk beds for eight women and nothing else, but it's so beautiful here and peaceful, you're grateful to be sleeping inside and not in a tent even if you have to use a bucket to flush the toilet!

We eat dinner family style, and I love it. I love sitting with all these strangers and sharing food and our journey down to the canyon and we are all so proud of ourselves for making it. Our guide tells us our breakfast time tomorrow is 6:30 am and then around 7:45 am we'll go on an optional five or six mile hike on the Clear Creek trail. Stacey and I attend that evening's Ranger talk on the first two guys who decided to swim the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Our Ranger, Mandy, is an amazing story teller and it's just so neat to being sitting outside, listening to a story with crickets chirping and birds and bats flying overhead and the stars shining brightly above. We head back to the dorms, ready for sleep and tomorrow's adventures. I'm exhausted and have to use the bathroom before bed. I do my business, flush the toilet (or flush the red bucket of water) and head out to the spigot to refill the bucket and replace it for the next person who has to use the facilities. I walk up the steps leading to the dorms, my calves screaming from the descent down, and head into my dorm. I look up but none of the women look familiar. I stop and realize I'm in the wrong dorm. Only I would walk into the wrong dorm ... they laugh and I sheepishly say I'm sorry and then head back to my dorm and tell on myself so everyone else can laugh at me. Time for bed!

The next day includes our morning hike where we get a bird's eye view of Phantom Ranch and a better look at the Kaibab trail that we just came down. I can't believe I did that (nor can my calves)! We learn about how organic red dye is made ... get this, you look for prickly pear beetle poop, find the beetle and when you smash the beetle, it creates the most rich red natural dye that is used today. Who knew poop could be so useful? The day is gorgeous, I spend most of it relaxing after the morning hike, taking a nap, playing bananagrams and cards (which I brought -- gotta have my games!) and then attending the Ranger's talk that evening, which was on the Kolb brothers who were the first photographers and huge explorers of the Grand Canyon. Too long of a story to share here but it was captivating. Even more enthralling was sitting outside with all these people, looking up at the huge, star-filled sky and feeling so blessed to be at such a beautiful and remote place. A bonus was we got to see the Space Station cross the sky that night. So cool! I missed Tim and Ben like crazy, but it was so good to be truly unplugged, to connect with nature and to be quiet and just move at a slower pace. I go to bed that night filled with contentment and gratitude, and lots of sore muscles.

We wake up at 4:30 am the next morning, quickly get dressed and pack up and head to breakfast at 5:00 am. By 6:00 am we are on the Bright Angel trail. I feel like they're aren't enough adjectives to describe the beauty of the trail. I've included some pictures below but suffice it to say, it was stunning and so different from the South Kaibab trail. Bright Angel trail is lush with a bit more gentle incline, that is until we get past the first four or so miles, and then the climb begins. The last three miles are brutal, my legs are like jelly but I'm still smiling from ear to ear. I finally see the buildings at the top and I know I'm close. Only two others are in front of me, and all I can think about is that I'll get to talk to Tim and Ben when I reach the top. I finally get to the top and I'm filled with such a sense of accomplishment and joy that I don't even know what to do with myself. I make the trek in six hours, three hours ahead of our meeting time. I turn my phone on and get the constant beep, beep beep, letting me know I have messages and mail. Ah, I'm back to civilization.

The funny thing is that I'm in no hurry to even look at even one email but I can't wait to call Tim. He can barely get a word in edge wise I'm so excited. I'm dirty and exhausted and overwhelmed with happiness. I muttered I love myself, I love myself most of the way up the trail off and on.

I'll be honest ... I still don't feel overwhelming love for myself, but I did get this clear message that said, I need to do more adventures like this. I want to see the world, I want to connect with nature and share my life with others. I know I feel more present and more at peace with myself when I'm truly doing things I love, and I loved every stinky, hard moment of this trip. Namaste.